Angkor is a fragmented mess. I see both overlaps and remnants of Hindu myths, Buddha faces and Thai dancers. In the process of figuring out its long and complicated history, I was intrigued by how the turn of events have influenced and shaped the country. Don't bother to read the books, they're just too overwhelming and confusing. Watch Jewels in the Jungle or Digging for the Truth instead. They helped to untangle the mess with answers or clues to the questions I had in my mind when I was walking through the sites.
Preah Ko
Bakong
Banteay Srei and many other temples were dedicated to Indian deities. Indian traders had to wait 6 months for the wind to reverse direction before it blew their ships back home again. Meanwhile, they passed on their religion, art, dance and culture to the local population.
Angkor Wat was designed to represent Mt Meru. My first response was "Mt Meru? In Siem Reap? I wanna go climb it!" Shame on me, Mt Meru doesn't exist in real life lah!
Epic events and Hindu stories/myths are depicted as bas-reliefs. The most famous one being
gods and demons, now headless, competing in a tug of war using a serpent as a rope to generate the elixir of life. In the process of churning the sea of milk,
beautiful dancing goddesses were born.
No one knows Cambodian classical dance originated from the Angkor period or the Siamese, after Cambodia fell to the Thais.
The intricacies of her headdress are stunning. Sorry male guardians, the women of Angkor have stolen the limelight with their varied clothings, elaborate accessories and big boobs.
Stopping to marvel at
King Jayavarman or Buddha? Kings subscribed to different religion during their reign, converting or reverting to Buddhism/Hinduism. Temples such as
Ta Prohm used to be a Buddhist monastery. It's now home to a gigantic grasshopper.
After going up and down Bakheng, I was struck by the sheer scale of construction in the absence of cranes or lifting equipment. How did they build several tiers in ancient times?
The Khmers knocked holes in every block to hold temporary pegs to help lift and manoeuvre blocks into place. Part 2 of Digging for the Truth explains the construction technique.
Anyway Bakheng was so crowded I don't quite know what I was supposed to see. Everyone was just idling around, fiddling with their electronic gadgets and waiting for...nothing!
No one really knows why the Khmers abandoned the city they painstakingly built and carved. The deities they once believed in could still be lingering around. No sunset at Bakheng but Shiva sent us a rainbow as consolation prize.
I know I have stopped believing sunrise exists in this world when I didn't feel disappointed after dragging myself out of bed at 3.30am to see this. First it was Meili then it was Kinabalu. Cairns too. Those photos you see in books and on the internet, they are not real. I had enough of getting up early to nothing. That's it. My last attempt at Angkor Wat.
Jasmine was established by Kunn, who gave himself the designation of Director. He must be filthy rich bcos he carries an iPhone 4. Mind you, iPhone 4 in Cambodia costs something like US$1,500. He's busy with his second branch just opposite the road and leaves it to his staff to manage the place. We could tell the boys and tuktuk drivers are quite scared of him.
Pick up from airport is free - it's actually a job opportunity for drivers to link up with passengers for trips to Angkor. Our driver agreed to send us to airport for US$1 but went against his word the next day. He explained that he's new and thought transport to airport was free as well. (In other words he's charging when he's not supposed.) "My boss said $3 (it's true we verified with another driver at Jasmine) but I tell you $1 yesterday so now $2 ok?" We thought about this small episode on his tuktuk and conclude that Jasmine is not just a lodge but a money sucking job agent in disguise. A portion of the tuktuk fare goes into Kunn's pocket. No wonder he can buy iPhone.
If you plan to stay here, don't arrange your transport here, ask around in town. Problems with drivers aside, I had a comfortable stay here. Not the best location (Taphul Village is a little far from town) but it's ok cos you can cycle to town for dinner. Free breakfast, free internet and there's cable tv too. Watching the last episode of Amazing Race 18 on AXN was shiok. We stayed 5 nights for just US$3.60 pp per night. Good deal. Thanks Footprint!
Pick up from airport is free - it's actually a job opportunity for drivers to link up with passengers for trips to Angkor. Our driver agreed to send us to airport for US$1 but went against his word the next day. He explained that he's new and thought transport to airport was free as well. (In other words he's charging when he's not supposed.) "My boss said $3 (it's true we verified with another driver at Jasmine) but I tell you $1 yesterday so now $2 ok?" We thought about this small episode on his tuktuk and conclude that Jasmine is not just a lodge but a money sucking job agent in disguise. A portion of the tuktuk fare goes into Kunn's pocket. No wonder he can buy iPhone.
If you plan to stay here, don't arrange your transport here, ask around in town. Problems with drivers aside, I had a comfortable stay here. Not the best location (Taphul Village is a little far from town) but it's ok cos you can cycle to town for dinner. Free breakfast, free internet and there's cable tv too. Watching the last episode of Amazing Race 18 on AXN was shiok. We stayed 5 nights for just US$3.60 pp per night. Good deal. Thanks Footprint!
Everyone has heard of Cambodia and nobody asked me geography-related questions this time (though I suspect some people think that Cambodia = Vietnam = Laos). Instead, they asked me why I go to Cambodia and what's interesting there. I thought the answer was obvious. No I am not going there to build schools or toilets. It's sad that people know Cambodia as a poor country and nothing more. No one remembers its glorious past and the great empire who built Angkor in just 30 over years when cathedrals in Europe took a few hundred years.
Transport is the second most expensive item after entrance fee. Three day pass costs a whopping US$40 (don't think about evading, checks are stringent and it's not worth the risk). The temples are scattered so you would need to hire a tuktuk to get around. We went to Bakheng (green marker) for free sunset (US$4), followed by Roluos (yellow) the next day (US$8). We were feeling the pinch so we cycled to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Keo and Ta Prohm (blue). 28km tired us out so we completed the red markers for US$18 on the last day. If you want to save, it is still possible to cycle to all the sites but only attempt to if you are really fit. Otherwise, bargain hard!
