mrsjono

We've been asking around for public transport to the lake but we were told there isn't any so we joined a half day tour with Simvo. It included three other sights and the lake was the last stop. We turned up punctually at 8.30am only to find ourselves wait 45 mins for 10 West Bengal tourists staying at Lower Pelling to finish their breakfast. We didn't eat anything and to make matters worse, a male chauvinist pig sitting in front was ordering the driver to stop for pictures along the way when there was nothing nice to photograph. I was totally pissed off.

Rimbi Falls and Rock Garden failed to lift my dampened spirits. Everyone went down to take a look except us. We sprang to life at the third stop, where we saw a rainbow appeared at the bottom of Khangchendzonga Waterfall.


The moment we got down at Khecheopalri, we made a beeline for the lake. I was more interested to find out if the view on the ridge was "staggering" as Footprint had claimed. It looked like it would take a while to climb up there. Heck, since they made us wait just now, tit for tat. We finished the lake quickly and returned to the carpark to begin our ascent. 


View of the lake three quarter way up. It does look like a footprint. I climbed as fast as I could, reaching the top in 15 mins.


There was a small village surrounded with colourful flags and beautiful views of the Himalayas. It was a delight to watch the little monks monkeying around and climbing trees without a care in the world. An angry granny showed them the cane but obviously it had no effect on the kids as they continued with their merrymaking. A pity we couldn't stay longer. We had to urge each other to leave as we had came up for a good 45 mins.

"What happened man?!" The male chauvinist pig shouted angrily in his Indian accent when we finally showed up at the carpark. I did not respond. "We saw a gompa!" He answered irrelevantly. No further questions from the pack. We scrambled into the back of the jeep, grinning to each other, satisfied with our short adventure on the ridge.

A lady descends from Pemayangtse Monastery in Pelling, India.

Footprint described Pemayangtse as "awe-inspiring" and "the highlight of Sikkim". My expectations were unfortunately and naturally raised and I know it's no good. If you know the rules, having expectations when you travel will only lead to disappointment.


It turned out to be a small and quiet monastery. There were many wall paintings and religious artworks but they were mere visual arts to the layman. There was nothing much to explore in the monastery grounds except watching the young monks who were also idling around and watching us.


On the way back to town, we saw people gathering near a gompa and were invited to join a ritual. Since we have no other plans for the rest of the day, we went without any hesitation.


Two months prior to our visit to India, a 6.9 magnitude earthquake hit Sikkim on 18 September 2011. We figured this ritual must be for the earthquake victims and they must be family members of the deceased from their grim expressions.


As soon as we arrived, we were served a plate of crackers, hot tea, dried beef and unidentifiable strips of either candy or intestines.


How about a bamboo of beer?


Don't tell anyone we're eating meat okay?


Folks around us noticed I didn't take any of their food or drink and offered me orange juice. It was their personal item, not served to any of the guests. I was deeply moved by their hospitality but politely declined.


I almost forgot I'm in India. As a landlocked state that borders Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet, majority of Sikkim residents look more like their neighbours than their Indian compatriots.


We hanged around till noon and decided to make a move as my stomach was growling.


I needed to go to the bathroom urgently and the young chap running Lotus Bakery kindly allowed me to use a bathroom located 50m away from the bakery. We bought some pastries from him and though they were cold and hard, we didn't mind since all proceeds go to deprived children of Sikkim.


Bimla whips up excellent momos. I asked her what does Mock Too mean and she brought out a big dumpling steamer. Enough said.


We spent the rest of the day checking out the school located above Mock Too. Lower primary kids playing during recess time, classrooms filled with pupils reciting after their teacher, a student walking along the long corridor and complicated equations on the blackboard in an upper secondary maths class made me feel quite nostalgic.


Teachers would sit outside and mark papers to take advantage of the natural lighting and the warmth from the sun. As we walked out of the hall into the parade square, we happened to meet the principal sitting outside, going through exam questions set by her teachers. We asked for her permission to look at the questions and the first question we saw was "What is sustainable development?" I was impressed their standard of education was on par with what we had went through in our days, having considered the fact that this school was located in a rather remote part of India. We also learnt that the medium of instruction is English and students spend the same total number of years as us from primary school to junior college. The bell rang and she excused herself for assembly. I watched the students put their hands together and prayed.


While walking around the school, I noticed they have painted their beliefs towards education in words on the building facade. There was one that reads "Education to be complete, must be humane. It must include not only the training of intellect, but also the refinement of the heart and discipline of the spirit." This one at the bottom of the window was unforgettable. I like the way it rhymes and how the fundamental purpose of education was effortlessly expressed in that few simple lines. This was an important reminder to how I should be guided in life, especially in an increasingly selfish and nonchalant society.

However, getting here first and standing right in front of the ticket window didn't guarantee us the front seats. Ticket man issued them to a mother and her two children. I don't know whether I should be angry at them for jumping the queue or feel ashamed for being petty. We let it go since she was travelling with kids.  


The road to Jorethang passes through tea estates. As the jeep winds its way down the dirt road, the driver would occasionally slow down to give locals a lift at the back of the jeep and drop off items (newspapers, food) to villagers living in the tea estates who returned the favor with oranges and he actually distributed the oranges to us passengers at the back. Tea workers taking a rest near a hairpin bend signalled the driver to slow down as there was oncoming traffic. Super impressed with the mutual help and support they lend to each other.


After crossing this long suspension bridge


is the border check post. Foreigners have to get their passports and Inner Line Permits stamped here. As expected, the officers took a longer time approving his permit as they scrutinised his visa on arrival.


5 mins later, the jeep pulled into a multi-storey car park in Jorethang. We quickly bought our tickets for the second half of the journey to Pelling (Rs 100 pp, depart 12.30pm) and 


filled our stomachs with vegetable biryani, egg masala and chips for just Rs 130 at Walk Inn. Cheap and delicious vegetarian meal!


I was tempted to buy an apple in this market full of vibrant colours.


Jorethang to Pelling was a more scenic journey.


The moment we got down the jeep, we were blown away when we saw how close we were to Kangchenjunga.


It wasn't fun climbing up and down Pelling with all your bags looking for accommodation. We ended up at Hotel Green Valley in Upper Pelling. Great view but dirty room. Clumps of hair on the floor. Heavy fleece blanket smelled like it has not been washed in ages. No bin in the room. We put up with it since hot shower was working.


We went up and down Pelling (again) looking for Alpine when it was just next to our hotel! It was next to a chicken slaughter house which gave us second thoughts about having our dinner here. I was starving and Nissin came in handy. While the chef was making vegetable pakora for us, I was watching his every move as if he was going to put poison into our food. Pakora turned out to be really tasty despite the unsettling lingering feeling. We realised we were too paranoid as we were perfectly fine throughout our stay in Pelling...

Darjeeling is blessed with stunning vistas of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. Don't miss the incredible viewpoint on Tiger Hill, where you will be able to see a breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas. Avoid the crowds, go after sunrise and you can have the entire view to yourself!


While a massive exodus of tourists leave around 4am to watch the sunrise at Tiger Hill, we slept till 8am, had English breakfast at 8.30am


and only departed for Tiger Hill at 9am.


Observation deck was empty


I was exhilarated to be able to see India's highest peak on such a clear day!


That little white peak on the left is none other than Everest, 225km away from Kangchenjunga.


They look alike don't they?


On the way to see the colourful prayer flags


we met this family enjoying a picnic at the foot of Tiger Hill. We tried to play with the toddler who never smiled after this photo.


As I watched them from a distance, I will always remember this moment to be of pure bliss and happiness.


Second stop was Ghoom Monastery but it was closed


Just in time to catch the slow mo toy train at Batasia Loop (last stop)


In memory of the brave Gorkha soldiers who have laid down their lives for the country in all wars and operations since independence


Today, the Gorkhas are still fighting for autonomy in Darjeeling. They even have their own flag, widely waved across Gorkhaland.


He requested to stop here for a last look before heading to the Rink Mall for lunch at


Penang Restaurant


While waiting for our food to come, we took turns to go to the toilet at Big Bazaar. I wolfed down the momos and they were the best momos I've ever tasted. The rest of the dishes thukpa and chilli chicken were good too.


Since we had time to spare, we decided to visit the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center. Why do they have to slap P.R.C on the roof? Give them a break man.


Resting my sore legs before crawling to


Glenary's for dinner. Sizzler and tandoori didn't disappoint.


Popped by Frank Ross Cafe for some needed fibre - fresh orange juice


On our way back to Andy's, the lights went out and the whole town was plunged into complete darkness. While blackouts are common here, it was my first time walking in the dark with a torchlight. On our last night in Darjeeling, there was no light, no electricity and no water but it was exceptionally beautiful with the sky full of stars.