Sudhir Kumar (top right corner) is from Manipur. He's from the army and he's swimming to Andaman Nicobar. Kidding. He's on his way to Delhi to take a plane to the islands for military training. Rajdhani Express trains link Delhi with the regional capitals in India. We are not going to Delhi (yet) but alighting halfway. We decided to pay for the full fare just to get on this train to Varanasi on time. Clean linen and meals are included in the train fare. Morning tea, breakfast, lunch, evening tea, dinner, dessert and supper all served at your berth. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian options available. He had a great time munching every item in the tray. 11.30pm Singapore time eating prata and curry chicken at my berth, trying not to spill anything on myself again while everyone else around me were eating their meals on wheels effortlessly. 

2.30am Singapore time watching the clock constantly and looking out the window as there was no station broadcast and no one to ask as folks around us were asleep. I could hear snores and Hindi music on speaker phone down the aisle. The train was due to arrive at Mughal Serai station in half an hour's time. We alighted and made our way to Junction Station on auto rickshaw, squashed with 10 other sardine passengers plus a mountain of bags. As we passed the Ganges, we saw a passenger threw a coin into the river and prayed. It was a magical moment I could still remember, even a year later as I write this. It reinforced my brief understanding of Varanasi as a holy place that we were about to visit.

There were many cycle rickshaws waiting at Junction Station to pick up passengers to town. We didn't know the rate and didn't trust anybody so we walked. We freaking walked more than 4km for an hour, waking up some of the cows sleeping along the empty streets. The town was heavily guarded by security officers on duty throughout the night and we were lucky one officer led us through the maze to Yogi Lodge. By the time I washed up, it was 4am India time. Finally, I can knock out in peace.