There wasn't enough time to do Lintang trek so we walked two shorter trails - Telok Paku and Pandan Kecil. We saw wild boars and quite a number of proboscis monkeys crashing through the trees along the first trail. We encountered one proboscis monkey moving past on land, less than 10m away. It was too fast for cameras. At the end of the second trail is a nice view of a cobra head (sea stake) facing the South China Sea. Bako is one of the more interesting national parks in Malaysia I've been to that lives up to its promise of diverse natural landscapes, vegetation and wildlife. 
Since Rafflesia was not in bloom, we went to see orang utans. I don't remember I've ever seen one before back home because I never knew they are sluggish, solitary but intelligent primates. I know sightings are not guaranteed and I should consider myself lucky. But honestly I was bored and disappointed. A platform was built for tourists to stand and watch. It was too staged. All the trails were closed and there wasn't anything else to do or see other than two gigantic alligators locked in the cage...
一把伞 一只小铁锤
老先生从早敲到晚
那份专注与耐性
引起我的注意
传统小吃就是靠努力
一叮一叮地流传至今
...
It’s Friday.
I lazed in bed, as usual, for as long as I could before I got up for work. It started to rain. I grabbed an umbrella and walked to the train station. I reached the road and saw the blind man. I recognise him. I’ve seen him a few times in my neighbourhood. I just saw him yesterday afternoon on the train. Not long ago, I saw him trying to cross the road when I was making my way home from the train station at night. I remember I hesitated whether I should go up and help. In the end another passerby helped him across.
The blind man was trying to cross the road. Again. Faced with the same situation for the second time, I told myself I shall not hesitate this time. He was carrying an umbrella, his bag slung by his side and feeling his way around using his stick. It was obvious he had difficulty judging whether it was safe to cross. There were people around him and they were not sure whether to lend a helping hand, just like how I behaved previously. I stood next to him and once the road was clear, I guided him across quickly. He thanked me. At that point in time, I did not think of opening my big umbrella since it was just a short distance. Further, there wasn't room to carry my big umbrella and walk next to another person who is also carrying an umbrella. I realised I was walking too fast for someone who can’t see. Oops. When we got over to the other side of the road, there was still a short distance to the station. I followed behind him for awhile, just to make sure he gets into the shelter safely. Once we were in the shelter, he slowed down to keep his foldable umbrella. As his hands were quite full, I decided to help him keep his umbrella but he moved away and said “I’m ok, thank you.”
"Oh ok." I muttered and walked away. I was a little hurt I was rejected when I was just trying to help. I almost forgot to buy breakfast. While walking towards the bakery, I realised I was wet from the rain. On the train, I thought about the good deed I had done. They say it feels good to help others. However, all the good feeling disappeared after my help was rejected. Not everyone who needs help will ask for help. The blind man is not any less egoistic than a normal human being. Judging when to help the disabled is important. Giving unnecessary help may offend or hurt them.
做人难 做好人更难.
I lazed in bed, as usual, for as long as I could before I got up for work. It started to rain. I grabbed an umbrella and walked to the train station. I reached the road and saw the blind man. I recognise him. I’ve seen him a few times in my neighbourhood. I just saw him yesterday afternoon on the train. Not long ago, I saw him trying to cross the road when I was making my way home from the train station at night. I remember I hesitated whether I should go up and help. In the end another passerby helped him across.
The blind man was trying to cross the road. Again. Faced with the same situation for the second time, I told myself I shall not hesitate this time. He was carrying an umbrella, his bag slung by his side and feeling his way around using his stick. It was obvious he had difficulty judging whether it was safe to cross. There were people around him and they were not sure whether to lend a helping hand, just like how I behaved previously. I stood next to him and once the road was clear, I guided him across quickly. He thanked me. At that point in time, I did not think of opening my big umbrella since it was just a short distance. Further, there wasn't room to carry my big umbrella and walk next to another person who is also carrying an umbrella. I realised I was walking too fast for someone who can’t see. Oops. When we got over to the other side of the road, there was still a short distance to the station. I followed behind him for awhile, just to make sure he gets into the shelter safely. Once we were in the shelter, he slowed down to keep his foldable umbrella. As his hands were quite full, I decided to help him keep his umbrella but he moved away and said “I’m ok, thank you.”
"Oh ok." I muttered and walked away. I was a little hurt I was rejected when I was just trying to help. I almost forgot to buy breakfast. While walking towards the bakery, I realised I was wet from the rain. On the train, I thought about the good deed I had done. They say it feels good to help others. However, all the good feeling disappeared after my help was rejected. Not everyone who needs help will ask for help. The blind man is not any less egoistic than a normal human being. Judging when to help the disabled is important. Giving unnecessary help may offend or hurt them.
做人难 做好人更难.
小肥羊 不打烊!
往扎门乌德的火车上
她那特别惆怅伤感的眼神
正和我兴致勃勃回北京的心情相反
...
Our journey back to Beijing was much easier and shorter. This time we made our way back on train-bus-flight.
Departed Ulaanbaatar on Saturday 8pm
Arrived Beijing on Sunday 6.30pm
Total time taken: 22.5 hours
Total cost: 34,300 tugrik + 50 yuan + S$86.07 = S$137.19
Leg 1: Train from Ulaanbaatar to Zamyn Uud
Total time: 12 hours
Total cost: 34,300 tugrik pp
We wanted to avoid getting in and out of the vehicle to get our passports stamped but could not get on the international train from Ulaanbaatar to Erlian so we had to pass by Zamyn Uud again. We had purchased our train tickets to Zamyn Uud on the same day we first arrived in Ulaanbaatar. The process was quite frustrating as we wasted so much time waiting at the yellow International Railway Ticketing Office for nothing and had to go back to the train station again to queue. No angry mob or bruises this time. As expected, the train was quite full and we were in a four berth cabin again.
Leg 2: Bus from Mongolia Zamyn Uud to Inner Mongolia Erlian
Total time: 4.5-5 hours
Total cost: 50 yuan pp
The bus we took had an aggressive "middle man" who could speak Chinese and Mongolian. He shouted at all of us to pay up and coordinated with customs clearance. Majority of the passengers were men from China with tons of baggage. Some of them don't have a visa. Some don't even have passport! :O
Arrived Beijing on Sunday 6.30pm
Total time taken: 22.5 hours
Total cost: 34,300 tugrik + 50 yuan + S$86.07 = S$137.19
Leg 1: Train from Ulaanbaatar to Zamyn Uud
Total time: 12 hours
Total cost: 34,300 tugrik pp
We wanted to avoid getting in and out of the vehicle to get our passports stamped but could not get on the international train from Ulaanbaatar to Erlian so we had to pass by Zamyn Uud again. We had purchased our train tickets to Zamyn Uud on the same day we first arrived in Ulaanbaatar. The process was quite frustrating as we wasted so much time waiting at the yellow International Railway Ticketing Office for nothing and had to go back to the train station again to queue. No angry mob or bruises this time. As expected, the train was quite full and we were in a four berth cabin again.
Leg 2: Bus from Mongolia Zamyn Uud to Inner Mongolia Erlian
Total time: 4.5-5 hours
Total cost: 50 yuan pp
The bus we took had an aggressive "middle man" who could speak Chinese and Mongolian. He shouted at all of us to pay up and coordinated with customs clearance. Majority of the passengers were men from China with tons of baggage. Some of them don't have a visa. Some don't even have passport! :O
你们是哪里人?
(沉默)
韩国人?
(摇头)
那18个人行李一大堆在后面 管你大包儿小包 一人加20！来！一人70！
把钱拿出来！
谁没签证？数一下！7个！
那7个先过去！
还有那4个没护照 一人100 帮你们签个字 要不你自己跟海关说 最多罚你200 还有谁？快说不然我不管了哦
我们是最后一辆车 今天车特别多 12点才能过关！
下车下车！全下车 把行李拿下去！
It took us 4.5-5 hours to get over to the other side...
Leg 3: Flight from Inner Mongolia Erlian to Beijing
Total time: 1 hr 20 mins
Total cost: S$86.07pp
We had booked this domestic flight online via eLong in Singapore. The only cafe in Erlian airport might as well convert to a vending machine - no hot food only cold drinks, not allowed to take a seat if you never buy anything. It was a delight Beijing Capital Airlines serve sandwiches and mineral water on this flight! Dropped our packs at BCIA's left luggage, hopped onto the airport express again, so looking forward to have a feast on our last night in Beijing!
(沉默)
韩国人?
(摇头)
那18个人行李一大堆在后面 管你大包儿小包 一人加20！来！一人70！
把钱拿出来！
谁没签证？数一下！7个！
那7个先过去！
还有那4个没护照 一人100 帮你们签个字 要不你自己跟海关说 最多罚你200 还有谁？快说不然我不管了哦
我们是最后一辆车 今天车特别多 12点才能过关！
下车下车！全下车 把行李拿下去！
It took us 4.5-5 hours to get over to the other side...
Leg 3: Flight from Inner Mongolia Erlian to Beijing
Total time: 1 hr 20 mins
Total cost: S$86.07pp
We had booked this domestic flight online via eLong in Singapore. The only cafe in Erlian airport might as well convert to a vending machine - no hot food only cold drinks, not allowed to take a seat if you never buy anything. It was a delight Beijing Capital Airlines serve sandwiches and mineral water on this flight! Dropped our packs at BCIA's left luggage, hopped onto the airport express again, so looking forward to have a feast on our last night in Beijing!
It was time to head back to the capital. I asked around for transport at the carpark while he went to the park office to pay for our tent space. There were only a few vehicles and our chances looked grim. I was loitering around when a foreigner approached me.
"Where are you going?" Carlo had curly hair and wore tinted glasses.
"UB. You?"
"We are going to UB in the afternoon."
"Can we hitch a ride?"
"Sure. But you have to wait. We are going in to have a look. Have you seen the horses?"
I shook my head. "We tried to yesterday but didn't see any."
"You can come with us if you want." He offered.
"REALLY?" My eyes lit up and I couldn't believe what I was hearing. I ran to the park office to tell him the good news.
On our first sighting, we saw about eight takhis but they were too far away.
Carlo with his powerful camera
As the vehicle moved deeper into the park, we spotted another pack on top of the hills.
We followed Carlo's friends up the steep hills. I was struggling to keep up as it was windy and cold.
It was magical as we watched them quietly from a distance. Takhis are more cautious and afraid of human beings than domestic horses. One will keep an eye on us while the rest feed. If we move too close, they will move further away.
I only realised we've climbed so far up when it was time to go back down.
Thank you Carlo and friends!
On the way back to UB, the vehicle made an ovoo stop. Carlo's friends got out and we took the opportunity to thank Carlo again. "I like to help young people. You two remind me of my son and daughter." He said and gave me a peck on the cheek.
Celebrated our return to civilisation at Marco Polo (~MNT 19,200 pp)
After Monogl Els, we had no other place we had planned to go. He wanted to head back to UB but I thought we should make use of our time here and not slip back to comfort zone. Since Hustai National Park was on the way to UB, we agreed to try our luck to hitch a ride there.
Packed up and found two toads underneath our tent (?!)
This man was on his way to UB and he gave us a ride to Hustai National Park. The park was another 7km from the highway and we thought he would drop us off the highway. But he went out of his way and dropped us at the park entrance. Not only that, he did not ask for any money! It was too good to be true. We felt so grateful and at the same time obliged to return this huge favour. Thank you sooo much!
The only accommodation in the park was Hustai Resort. It was fully booked and the pregnant park manager allowed us to camp beside the basketball court for US$6 per night.
Don't smash our tent pls
Hustai National Park is home to the last species of wild horses - Przewalski's horse or Takhi. This useless map in the park office roughly shows where are the endangered horses. In summary, they can be anywhere in the national park.
We started walking at 2.30pm. We walked...and walked...and walked...for as long as we could. There were lots of crazy grasshoppers but no sight of any horses. The walk was not physically demanding but he grew really fed up walking aimlessly so we aborted our search and returned to park HQ.
We only had pringles and coke for the whole day so we were really hungry. Devoured this plate of grilled chicken goulash (US$7), washed up and went back to our tent, disappointed we had made a wasted trip here...
Since we didn't make it to the Gobi, we decided to stop for a night at the sand dunes of Mongol Els (sometimes known as "Little Gobi") en route to UB. Munkhsuuri's son-in-law gave us a lift to the market to catch the bus. It was full and spillover passengers had to sit on little stools along the aisle which was fine as we were going to alight in an hour's time.
When we got down the bus, this man turned up to fetch us. We didn't know him but he seemed to know us. We believed our hosts at Munkhsuuri must have called him to keep an eye out for us T_T He didn't look like a bad guy so we followed him to his ger and arranged for two camels and one meal for dinner.
The sand dunes pop out of nowhere in the steppes
Mongol Altai Tour Camp operates a restaurant and accommodation at the foot of the dunes
Let's go for a walk in the sand
步步进沙
没有沙漠沙丘也不错呀
Cancelled the second camel to save some money lol and took turns to go for a ride
Trying to get camel to kneel down but I ended up on my knees instead lol
Checking out camel's hump (*pat#poke)
After a painful horse ride at Tuvhun Monastery, riding a camel felt surprisingly good on my sore groin man...
This monument shows the size of Mongolia then and now. Under the leadership of Genghis Khan, the Mongols conquered nearly all of Asia, the Middle East and parts of eastern Europe. The Mongol Empire stretched to Iran, Iraq, Syria and even as far as Hungary and Poland. Super powerful army.
The original plan was to make our way from Kharkhorin to Dalanzadgad via Arvaikheer but we were not confident we would be able to hitch a ride there so we gave up on the Gobi and stayed put in Kharkhorin today.
We strolled to Erdene Zuu, an ancient Buddhist monastery, one kilometre southeast of Munkhsuuri Guesthouse.
The monastery has an interesting mix and influence of architecture
Chinese style temples
Tibetan style temples
Tibetan Buddhism has been the predominant religion in Mongolia since the 16th and 17th century.
An old lady in deel (Monoglia traditional clothing) turning prayer wheels
Outside the monastery walls are stalls selling a dazzling array of ornaments and souvenirs including prayer beads, accessories and ancient porn paintings lol
Wandered further from the monastery searching for other relics in the area
Good old turtle we found ya
This place in Kharkhorin is maintained by an old lady Munkhsuuri and managed by Munkhsuuri's daughter who speaks English. It's a warm welcome back to civilisation especially after wandering in the wilderness for a few days.
More of a ger camp rather than a guesthouse
Sleep under the most stunning starry skies
Have a hot shower but don't take too long though because the water pressure is low and there may be a queue waiting to shower too (only one shower was working during our stay)
Recharge your body with simple hot meals
Tasty pancakes
Say hello to this calm and submissive dog
Lovely hosts and their adorable blonde hair daughter
