Xizhou: The Road Less Travelled

May 19, 2009


On our last day in Dali, we decided to hit the roads to Xizhou! No chairlift, no ferry, no bus, no tourists! This was the toughest bicycle ride in my life man!

We set off from the West Gate (Point A) on 214国道 (G214)-an expressway spanning Qinghai, Tibet and Yunnan-and 大丽线 (S221) the road connecting Dali to Lijiang for about 21km to Xizhou (Point B). Along the way, we stopped at Pan Xi Pier to take a look at Erhai Lake. Total distance covered was approximately 45-50km in 7.5hrs. Yea, we're crazy. I can't believe I made it back alive. The feeling of cruising along huge mountains, vast open fields and blue sea was SMASHING AWWWESOME!!! Look out for our video below!


Rented bicycles at 15 yuan each, to return before 8pm. The lady boss wanted 300 yuan deposit from us. Sneaky! Don't patronize them, I'm sure there are better deals out there. Jeez, I'm good at ruining people's business lol.


We got mountain bike, not any lousy bicycle k. Mountain bike u know? Can change gears one.


I checked the weather forecast the previous night at sina.com.cn which reported it would rain today. Bloody hell, it was damn hot la! We brought everything except our sunblock and the inaccurate weather forecast caused us to be severely sunburnt.

THIS WAY TO TIBETTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!


After riding happily for 20 mins, there's no more road ahead.

So we took a turn into a village on this rough road filled with stones and rocks

I was lagging far behind bcos I'm afraid I'll crash each time the wheels go over the rocks

Man I'm thirsty

Come on, let's go again!
On the Dali-Lijiang road, we rode on this small lane alongside buses and tractors emitting black fumes. I almost crashed into a plot of wet farmland on the way back cos I was getting tired and losing concentration.


After riding for a couple of hours, we saw this pier and decided to turn in

There were lines of small boats and a big ferry Shun Feng

My Sanyo E60

His Canon Ixus 80 IS

My track pants rock

Who took this for us?
They did
There were lorries of cows and pigs


Have u ever seen farmers at work? I've not, bcos there's only 1% of agriculture in Singapore. They bend like this the whole day under the hot sun. Tough...

After riding for another couple of hours, we finally reached our destination-Xizhou!

We were surprised to see lots of horse carriages like these

Where's everyone going??

各位游客: 今天是一年一度的绕山灵活动. 金河警务室提醒您注意个人安全及管理好自己的东西.
There's a carnival today! How lucky!

It was crowded man

We pushed our bikes through the crowded bazaar and took photos with the other hand. What a burden. We were the only urbanites walking around in this rural village.

Rolling and begging

Street snacks

Temple was crowded too

Some ritual going on Candies?

Colourful headbands

Kids were not forgotten too


They came up with this game where if u write 1 to 600 continuously without any mistakes, blanks or hesitation, u win a big teddy bear. I was quite tempted to try at first but the prize wasn't attractive at all.


Everyone's got one of these hats

They put on their best clothings and dress nicely on this annual festival

Candy floss



Why do some women have round stickers at the side of their heads?

We saw two grannies chatting away and totally oblivious to what's going on around them

Either they can't see (bcos I can't seem to see their eyes at all)

Or they have obsolutely no idea what's a camera

I stood on a pile of rubbish to take this


A bald guy (see video below) brought us to this place-a rich Bai family by the surname of Yan-where there are dance performances and tea demonstration


The entrance fee was 50 yuan per person. The bald guy is a Bai minority he can go in free of charge. He offered us 60 yuan for two tickets and he'd look after our bikes. After contemplating for some time, we decided not to go. For me, I didn't want to watch a staged performance and I was worried he'll steal our bikes. Why should I pay him when he's not the one performing?


He saw we were leaving and gave a last offer 40 yuan. This means it can even go lower and so we got on our bikes and left this place. On our way out, we met another Bai woman who offered us the same thing. I called out 20 yuan, she hesitated, I started to pedal, and she said yes. But I rode off anyway. Just anyhow call for fun haha!


Notice the contrast at the beginning and towards the end

We took a really long time to come back bcos we were exhausted and had to take many breaks along the way

Even the resilient guardsman started to show the shag face


Remember the uncompleted road earlier on? We went back on that shit road which was almost impossible for bicycles to ride on. There were some cars and buses going through. We got down and pushed our bikes with sand flying in our faces for more than 45mins. Gruesome. It was a test of mental more than physical fitness. So relieved to see the Three Pagodas after eating sand and dust for more than 45mins.


We took a final rest near the Three Pagodas and some factories making the famous Dali Marble. Yes, 大理石 is from none other than Dali. Suddenly, an uncle walked towards us and started talking to us. Initially, I thought he was just another one of those irritating touters so I ignored him and pretended I don't understand Chinese. Then I realised he meant no harm, just bored at work and looking for people to talk to. It was interesting talking to him as I learnt another perspective from a local. This was how the conversation went:

Uncle: So where are u all from?
Rs: Guess? (He always ask people to guess)
Uncle: I dono...hard to guess
Rs: We from Singapore
Uncle: (Thinks for awhile) Ohhhhh....
Me: U know where is Singapore?
Uncle: Yes...Singapore...I know...I saw on tv...
Uncle: (Starts to say something we don't understand in his own tongue)
Us: Huh??? What did u say?
Uncle: I say...U all Singapore bring (speaks in his own language again)
Us: (Looks at each other) Err...we don't understand...
Uncle: I say...U all Singapore bring a sheep home when u get married...
Me: Huh??? Really?
Uncle: (Nods) Yes yes I saw on tv...
Me: Which drama? U know?
Uncle: I dono...Don't remember already...
Me: No lah..Singapore no farms..

Throughout this trip, we found out that most people knew about Singapore through our ch8 drama serials. I then asked him about the round sticker. He told us those with sticker means they are going to participate in singing which will allow them to find a partner. Oh, and he takes only an hour to cycle from the marble factory to his home (银桥镇) which is 14km from Xizhou. It was time to move on again but our butts were so damn sore it was too painful to get on our bikes. So we walked and pushed (again) our bikes back for another some distance before we decide to bear with the pain and get it over and done with!


Thank goodness I insisted on a heavy breakfast before we set off. Food taste pretty good and it's cheap too!

Gotta have 过桥米线 when u'r in Yunnan
His fried rice


Bought some cold drinks after we returned the bicycles. Watermelon ice blended was HEAVENLY after a gruesome 7.5hrs ride! We didn't know where else to eat for dinner (most of the restaurants in town look dirty to us) so we went back to Good Panda. We asked the boss to give us discount since we patronized his restaurant again and he nodded ok.

This was the worst sunburnt I suffered in my life. It was so painful I couldn't sleep at night.

Last taste of grilled cheese

汽锅鸡-Taste like my mom's chicken soupThe bill came up to something like 54 yuan and he whispered to us "Ok I count u 50" Duhhh!

五华楼 (Wuhua Building)
Beautiful at night
It was starting to get cold at night as we made our way back to hostel

We stayed in Ming Room. Their rooms are named after the dynasties in China.

That's Dave sitting at the counter
The friendly dog who is used to people walking over it

Baby Talon is awake! Aw man, why did he flinch!Both of them have big ears! Grandma said big ears bring big fortune! 福气!

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1 comments

  1. ahaha u 2 so chao ta! LIKE ME! i'm super tanned now!!

    i think this is the must shuai entry out of the whole series coz you all bike all the way with gear-changing bikes! hahaha. damn brave la.

    i always got the 'are you japanese/from china?' question. and when we say we're from singapore, we get the same response also. duno where singapore is or pretend to know. 我们真的很小。。。

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